Hi, and welcome to this inaugural article on our platform. As an experienced practitioner, I
decided that it was the right time to share my knowledge and thoughts with you. So, without further
ado, let's dive right in!
Throughout my years of practice, I have come to realize that the condition of epidermal
barrier is of utmost importance before embarking on any skincare regimen, whether it be in a
professional clinic or at home. Without a healthy epidermal barrier, our efforts to enhance the appearance of the skin may prove ineffective or even worsen its condition.
It has long been known that the protective function of the epidermis rests on the stratum
corneum. Its structure effectively reduces the penetration of xenobiotics and trans epidermal water loss.
With knowledge of the organization of this layer, we can both protect and support its
integrity, as well as overcome this barrier for our therapeutic goals. We also know that the loss or
deterioration of the barrier functions of the epidermis most often results from abnormalities related
to the production of lipids or their excessive removal. The epidermal barrier exists within the most superficial layer of the skin, the stratum
corneum.
The epidermal barrier encompasses three main components:
- stratum corneum,
- hydrolipid coat,
- microbiome.
Damage to this barrier can occur due to aggressive care, too aggressive aesthetic
treatments, and lack of nutritional treatments, as well because of deficiencies of micro- and macro- elements in the diet.
The condition of the epidermal barrier plays a significant role in mature acne, rosacea, and atopic dermatitis. A compromised barrier intensifies inflammatory processes, prolonged healing and even causes that treatment therapies do not bring the expected results and the patient's skin becomes increasingly irritated and overactive. Therefore, I believe that every skin therapy should start with the conditioning of the epidermal
barrier and the client should be informed how to take care of the epidermal barrier through home care.
The bricks and mortar model of Stratum Corneum.
The Stratum Corneum is often referred as a brick-and-mortar wall. The Stratum Corneum corneocytes and keratin microfibrils are the bricks, and the layers of lipids found between the cells are the mortar.
The lipid “mortar” is the main barrier to water passing out through the stratum corneum. In the stratum corneum, lipids are found in the intercellular cement. They are not born in this
layer. They form lower, where multilamellar bodies (lamellar, Odland, keratinosomes) are located, i.e., in the granular layer of the epidermis, some even deeper, in the basal or
spinous layer. Lipids consists of:
- ceramides 40%- Precursors of epidermal ceramides are most often glucosylceramides and sphingomyelins, which are enzymatically transformed into mature ceramides. The functionality of the epidermal barrier depends to a large extent on ceramides. Deficiency of ceramides means an increase in TEWL, and consequently dehydration, irritation, slowdown
of all cellular processes and a whole series of consequences forming a logical chain of events. Few people know and remember that ceramides also have a protective function
against pathogenic microbes. - sterols and derivatives 25%- Sterols, i.e., cholesterol and cholesterol sulphate, also have
their origin in the secretion of Odland bodies. In diseases in which there is a lack of this enzyme in the skin, pathological dryness occurs (e.g., in ichthyosis).
- fatty acids 18% - They are formed by lipolysis from phospholipids and triglycerides. Free
fatty acids are responsible for the acidic pH of the skins hydrolipid mantle and are also
necessary for the formation of liquid crystal cement structures and are an important factor in regulating the activity of hydrolytic enzymes. Thus, abnormalities in the functioning and proportions of fatty acids are reflected not only in the barrier functions of the skin, but also lead to premature and excessive degradation of corneodesmosomes.
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